Where to Eat and Drink, 2019 Edition

Sometimes it can be so hard to make a decision, and when it's for important stuff like eating and drinking, maybe it's wise to ask for help. Here's help

feature (edinburgh) | Read in About 16 minutes
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Cult Espresso
Published 24 Jul 2019

Cafes

Artisan Roast

57 Broughton St, 138 Bruntsfield Pl @artisanroast

Artisan Roast are very serious about their coffee, but for that you will be very grateful as you sip one of the best flat whites the whole of the UK has to offer. If you’re not serious about your coffee, AR will convert you to the winning team.

Baba Budan

1 Cranston St @bababudancoffee

Parked right across from Waverley, Baba Budan is perfect for a straight-off-the-train sugar boost. Doughnuts are the main draw, coming in a host of exciting flavours and combinations; grab one with a coffee, and get fueled up for a day of show-hopping.

Brew Lab

6-8 South College St @BrewLabCoffee

Great coffee, outrageous sandwiches and soups, and cakes and teas from some of Edinburgh’s best producers all find a home at Brew Lab, with a strong wine and beer game thrown in as well.

Cult Espresso

104 Buccleuch St @cultcoffeeedin

A welcome sanctuary from the Fringe, this split-level coffee shop just down from Summerhall pairs a stripped-back aesthetic with expertly-crafted coffees and a small but perfectly-formed food menu.

Detour Espresso

39 Argyle Pl @detourespresso

Sat pretty much halfway down the Meadows, Detour serve up an excellent cup of coffee in a light and airy space ideal for a pre-show pitstop.

Fieldwork

105 Fountainbridge @fieldworkcafe

All dark wood, exposed brickwork and old school desks, Fieldwork specialise in delicious cakes and pastries, coffee from the fantastic Steampunk roastery, and generating a thoroughly relaxed ambience.

Forest Cafe

141 Lauriston Pl 

Having been booted from their former home on Forest Road a few years back, the Forest’s crew of volunteers have taken up residence in Tollcross and turned this former corner shop into a vibrant arts space. Expect art, music, poetry and anything else that comes to mind in the freest venue in the city. 

Fortitude Coffee

3c York Pl @FortitudeCoffee

In Fringe terms, Fortitude is a perfect fit – brilliant coffee, delicious sandwiches and brilliant cakes from local heroes Lovecrumbs, all on the literal doorstep of The Stand. Seriously, it’s right next door.

Hula

103-105 West Bow, 94A Fountainbridge @hulajuicebar

Bright and breezy, Hula does a great line in fresh fruit juices with exotic and outrageous blends that you never would have considered, as well as great coffee and exciting food.

Lovecrumbs

155 West Port @hellolovecrumbs

An inventive sweet and savoury menu, tables made from old pianos, and an actual window seat give Lovecrumbs an anarchic air that turns the act of going for coffee into an adventure. 

Lowdown Coffee

40 George St @coffeelowdown

A small but perfectly-formed Scandi-style basement beneath George Street, Lowdown is a calming environment from which to escape the madness of the street above. 

Loudons

94B Fountainbridge, 2 Sibbald Walk @Loudons_edin

If you like brunch, you’re in for a treat; Loudons specialise in the stuff. Hungover Fringegoers rejoice at the many, many ways these guys can prepare an egg. So many! So many eggs! 

Machina Espresso

2 Brougham Pl, 80 Nicholson St @MachinaEspresso

Machina roast their own beans, so they know what they’re about. Pair a coffee with a pastry or enormous sandwich, and consider yourself ready for a day of shows.

Williams and Johnson

3 Waverley Bridge @wjcoffee

The Leith roasters supply many of the city centre’s best cafes, and now they run one as well – hit their cool and minimal space on top of Waverley Mall for an absolutely excellent flat white. 

 

Pubs & Bars

The Auld Hoose

23-25 St Leonard's St @TheAuldHoose

A cross-breed of ‘old man pub’ and ‘rock bar’, this Newington pub covers both bases in style. Slick decor, a good drinks selection and ridiculous bowls of nachos await.

Bannerman's

202 Cowgate @BannermansBar

The back room of Bannerman's is one the favourite haunts of the city’s rockers, but the main bar is a much more laid-back environment. It’s cheap, there’s plenty of space, and it’s literally right in the centre of town. 

Blue Blazer

2 Spittal St @blueblazeredin

The Blue Blazer is a ‘proper’ Edinburgh pub, in the best possible sense. Boasting one of the finest selections of real ales, whiskies and rums in the capital, the Blue Blazer’s walls have seen it all. 

Bramble

16a Queen St @BrambleBar

Arguably the city’s finest cocktail bar, and certainly one of the venues that elevated Auld Reekie into the global cocktail conversation. It’s dark, the hip-hop bumps loud from the speakers, and the drinks are beautiful. 

 

Brass Monkey

14 Drummond St @brassmonkeybar

Tucked in between the Pleasance and the Bridges, Brass Monkey matches a great location with a relaxed atmosphere. Much of that comes from the mini-cinema in the back room, packed with squishy cushions.

Camera

74 Clerk St

In need of a Fringe hideaway, right next to some big venues but tucked away where the flyers and embittered reviewers can’t get to you? Camera is the place – a hip subterranean cocktail bar right round the corner from Summerhall. 

The City Cafe

19 Blair St @thecitycafe

If you’ve ever dreamt of going to an American diner in the 1950s, well... you can’t. Sorry. Luckily, The City Cafe is a pretty good alternative, with its chessboard-style floor and leather and chrome booths. 

Cloisters

26 Brougham St @Cloisters_Bar

Set into the side of a church, this pub is packed with period features. A huge selection of beers and ales and always lively atmosphere make Cloisters a great spot for a pre- or post-show pint. 

Cold Town House

4 Grassmarket

They’ve got a bar on the roof. Cold Town House is a three-floor hive of drinks, food and fun times, but its unquestionable ace in the hole is its rooftop terrace with views of the Castle. When it stops raining, get yourself up there. 

Dagda

93 Buccleuch St

A cracking real ale bar that’s also the size of a large living room, Dagda is a place to rediscover your convivial spirit over a pint. Grab one of the lovely booths if you can. 

Fierce Beer Bar

167 Rose St @fiercebeer

The Aberdonian brewery have taken up residence at the west end of Rose Street, with their new bar serving up some craft beer realness. Lots of taps, plenty of exciting limited-run beers, and some comfy chairs await. 

The Hanging Bat

133 Lothian Rd @TheHangingBat

A huge and ever-changing range of some of the best beers from all over the world, a mini-brewery at the back and super knowledgeable bar staff make this the place to go to get your ‘serious beer’ on during the Fringe. 

Salt Horse

57-61 Blackfriars Street @salthorsebar

Salt Horse features what may be one of the most comprehensive beer selections in the capital. It’s a brilliantly eclectic and impressively dense range that will literally take you the whole month to work through. 

Six Degrees North

24 Howe St, @sixdnorthedin

A New Town setting for a Belgian-inspired Stonehaven-based brewery pub – sounds confusing, but if you’re into your craft beer these guys will see you right. Dozens of taps await. 

Ventoux

2 Brougham St

Inspired by the Tour de France mountain of the same name, this Tollcross bar is a lovely local hangout that’s filled with fish tanks on the shelves, bikes hanging from the ceiling, and an impressive host of German beers behind the bar. 

Restaurants

BABA

130 George St @babaedinburgh

Middle Eastern mezze are the order of the day at BABA, parked at the Book Festival end of George Street. Expect a highly shareable menu packed with tasty Levantine dishes. 

Bodega 

14 Albert Pl, 36 Leven St @bodegatollx

Fantastic tacos in super-chilled and extremely friendly surroundings, Bodega bring flavours from around the world together in wonderful corn tortillas. Oh, and their margaritas are immense. 

Bread Meats Bread

92 Lothian Rd @BreadMeats_EDI

Incredible burgers, outrageous sides—try the poutine—and a great location; Bread Meats Bread is ideal Fringe fuel, and their vegan menu has come on leaps and bounds in recent times so now everyone can enjoy it. 

Chop House

East Market St @chophousesteak

If the Fringe is getting you down, may we recommend the Chop House’s frankly outlandish breakfasts, or one of their incredible dry-aged steaks? Either way, luxuriate in their enormous orange chairs and take an extremely tasty break from it all. 

Maki & Ramen

13 W Richmond St

A lovingly decorated and charming hole in the wall off Nicholson St, the menu is, as suggested, half sushi and half noodle. Expect quality in presentation, ingredients and execution. Try the Master Chef Shoyu burnt garlic ramen; you will not be disappointed. 

Mother India’s Cafe

3-5 Infirmary St @Official_MIndia

At Mother India, the tapas-style menu means that the breadth and variety of your dinner is limited only by your ability to share with friends. And they’re your friends, so if you ‘accidentally’ elbow them out of the way for the prawns they’ll understand. 

Pizza Posto

16 Nicholson St @pizzapostouk

An ideal spot for a whistlestop between-show meal, Posto turn out brilliant pizzas at a hell of a speed. It’s a massive space so waiting times are minimal, and you’ll come away with a surprising amount of change when you’re done. 

 

Casual

Bross Bagels

19 Queensferry St, 105 Leith Walk, 186 Portobello High St @BrossBagels

Larah Bross’ Montreal-style bagels have become a local institution in just a few short years. You’ll find delicious flavours, inventive combinations and a generally cool vibe at any of their three spots around the city. 

Checkpoint

3 Bristo Pl @checkpointedi

Brilliant brunch until the early evening? A great drinks selection for the late-night? A shipping container, inside the bar? Checkpoint has it all. 

Civerinos

5 Hunter Sq, 49 Forrest Rd @civerinos_slice

Their locations are great: just off the Royal Mile, and on the edge of the Meadows. The vibe is great: all fly-postered walls and marble statues. Above all else, the pizza at Civerinos is great: sourdough base, brilliant toppings, and big enough to fuel even the most ill-advised of schedules. 

Dough

172 Rose St & 47 South Clerk St @Dough_pizzeria1

You’re on the way from one show to another, you’re a bit hungover and you haven’t eaten in a day and a half. What you need is a slice of pizza – Dough have an extensive array of by-the-slice pies, all delicious sea water crusts and fresh ingredients. 

El Cartel Mexicana

64 Thistle St, 15 Teviot Pl @elcartelmexicana 

The best Mexican food in Edinburgh can be found in the cosy (as in tiny) confines of El Cartel. They’ve added a second restaurant near Bristo Square, but be assured that the tacos are more than worth any queuing you might fact. 

High Dive Pizza Pub

81 St Leonards St @thehighdiveandslicebar

The latest venture from the fine folks behind Civerinos, the High Dive is an exciting blend of pseudo-nostalgic surroundings and delicious, inventive pizzas. Connect with the local vibe with a cocktail named after one of the flumes at the Commonwealth Pool.

The Mosque Kitchen

31 Nicolson Sq

A Fringe institution and all-round winner, the Mosque Kitchen serves up delicious curry all day long with huge plates of spicy goodness starting at just a few quid. If you haven’t been yet, go now. 

The Nile Valley Cafe

6 Chapel St

The falafel; oh sir, the falafel. This unpretentious Sudanese cafe would be our number one choice for an ad-hoc Fringe lunch – pick up their Africa wrap (falafel, feta cheese, broad beans, hummus and spicy peanut sauce) and all your comedy hang-ups will disappear in a cloud of chickpea-based positivity. 

Noodles and Dumplings

23 South Clerk St

A no-frills Chinese diner in the heart of Newington, this is where you go for glutinous hand-pulled noodles and delicious multi-layered broth served in bowls the size of your head. 

Red Box Noodle Bar

51 W Nicholson St

Enormously customisable noodle boxes are the order of the day here. Choose every last detail of your lunch, from the cut of the noodles to the level of heat in the chili, then dive in (literally if necessary). 

Ting Thai Caravan

8 Teviot Pl

Totally affordable, incredibly tasty and more than a little exciting, Ting Thai Caravan is in many ways the perfect lunch spot. Get down early for a seat at the canteen-style benches, and pore over a Thai menu with more variety and quality than you can shake a chopstick at.

Ting Thai Saboteur

19 Teviot Pl

South Asian street food with a great range of veggie options, Saboteur is right around the corner from its illustrious sibling, but doesn’t yet suffer from the mammoth queues of  Ting Thai Caravan. We say get in while you have the chance. 

Union of Genius

8 Forrest Rd

Soup’s great, and Union of Genius’ soup is greater than most. Loads of veggie options, plentiful servings and super-quick service make this a deserved Fringe favourite. 

All Day

Edinburgh Printmakers

1 Dundee St @EdinburghPrints

Now one of Europe’s largest print facilities, Printmakers houses two galleries, a shop, a huge print studio and a lovely cafe with a brilliantly sunny terrace. All squeezed into a brilliantly renovated former rubber factory, it's well worth checking out.

George Square

Expect to find a raft of street food vans parked up in and around the George Square homes of Underbelly and Assembly. We recommend looking out for The Buffalo Truck (black van, amazing fried chicken), Mimi’s (light blue, very nice cakes) and Pizza Geeks (glasses on the logo, brilliant pizzas).

Gilded Balloon

Teviot Pl @Gildedballoon

This Hogwart’s-style building is actually the oldest purpose-built students’ union in the world. Bought and paid for by the students in 1889—clearly they had a bit more cash back then—it’s a warren of big and small performance spaces, bars and cafes. 

Mary’s Milk Bar

18 Grassmarket @MarysMilkBar

A cute little gelateria inspired by the milk bars of the 1960s but with the flavours brought right up to date, Mary’s has quickly become an Edinburgh institution. If the sun is out (it will be at least once, promise), get yourself down here for a hit of delicious, creamy gelato. You’ve earned it. 

National Museum of Scotland

Chambers St @NtlMuseumsScot

The NMS has a plethora of fascinating galleries holding items from across the ages. For lovers of nice views (and delicious food at the acclaimed Tower restaurant), head to the seventh floor roof terrace for a look across the city.

The Pitt

125 Pitt St @thepittmarket

Edinburgh’s year-round street food market is home to some of the country’s best food vans, and during the Fringe it also features the delights of piano-based amphitheatre the Pianodrome. 

Pleasance Dome

1 Bristo Square @ThePleasance

Year round, this is one of Edinburgh University Student Union’s venues. Come August time it’s not only a major festival venue, but also the site of some serious hanging out, coffee drinking, snack munching, morning, midday and evening boozing and star-spotting. 

Summerhall

 1 Summerhall @summerhallery

With a venue the size of a former Veterinary school, it takes a lot to fill it. Thankfully Summerhall has the right idea, packing the place with lots of little goings-on. In addition to a vast Fringe programme of theatre, comedy and live music, there are exhibition spaces, two cafes, an onsite micro-brewery AND gin distillery, and they even have room for the Fest offices. Hiya! 

 

Late Night

Banshee Labyrinth

29 Niddry St @b_labyrinth

If a dive bar were designed by a crypt-keeper, it would look like Banshee Labyrinth. Endless caves (some of which host free Fringe shows), copious hiding places and free-flowing drinks. 

Che

21 Forrest Rd

Falafel can cure all ills, so if you’ve hit it a bit too hard on a night out head to Che for a chickpea nightcap. Freshly-fried falafel, wrapped up with salad and pickles, will see you through to the morning. 

The Hive

3 Niddry St @clubhive

The wild and cavernous Cowgate hang-out is a notorious student haunt for good reason. If you only know The Hive for its Fringe programming, you haven’t lived; head down for a late-night drink and you’ll find an all-action party spot that isn’t for the faint-hearted. 

Lady Libertine

25 W Register St @LadyLibertineEd

This latest venture from the folk behind Bon Vivant and El Cartel is a bit interesting. Mezze, cocktails, multiple areas through which to sashay, and a late closing time all combine for an ideal end of day venue. 

OX 184

184 Cowgate

A lengthy bar stocked with a legion of beers, ciders and spirits and nightly DJs are a solid start. But OX 184’s secret weapon is a wood-fired grill and handsome BBQ menu served until 2:30am. 

Paradise Palms

41 Lothian St @edinburghpalms

A genuine lynchpin for Edinburgh’s creative community, Palms has a bit of everything. It’s a performance space, a record shop (and record label), a veggie diner, and a hugely fun bar. Go at least once this Fringe, you won’t regret it. 

Sneaky Pete’s

73 Cowgate @sneakypetesclub

It’ll make your Fringe flat seem like a palace, but what Sneaky’s lacks in area it makes up for with energy. A huge range of weekly and monthly club nights, a beautifully clear sound system, and an ever-present crowd of the city’s most discerning and nicest clubbers make Sneaky’s a great shout every night of the week.

Wee Red Bar

74 Lauriston Pl

The Wee Red Bar may be located on ECA territory, but this isn’t your average student disco. A near-constant stream of grassroots gigs take up the evenings, and the wide range of club nights keep things interesting until the early hours.